Thursday, 15 December 2011
Donkey for Delaney!
After reading our travel tips, the popular FAI Supremo gets a helping hand to his taxi from two old friends in Bar Nimeta...
Tuesday, 25 October 2011
At the match
Probably best to look elsewhere for in-depth analysis of Estonian defensive weakness...
As mentioned above, the A Le Coq stadium (named after the brewer sponsor) is now complete and looks good, although it might be a bit crowded for your game. 10,000 fans should create a decent atmosphere. Best to get there early as the stewards and queueing systems are a bit disorganised.
The stadium is hemmed in by two meeting railway lines at the 'away' end, which is nearest to the City center. The underpass crossing the line is narrow and might be a hazard if everyone turns up at the last minute, so be careful. It's a half hour walk from the Old Town Square if people want to sober up. Probably a bit early for snow but you never know.
Musical instruments allowed but anyone with a king-size Lambeg should be prepared for an interrogation by security at the gates. Beer and sausage available during game at reasonable prices.
As mentioned above, the A Le Coq stadium (named after the brewer sponsor) is now complete and looks good, although it might be a bit crowded for your game. 10,000 fans should create a decent atmosphere. Best to get there early as the stewards and queueing systems are a bit disorganised.
The stadium is hemmed in by two meeting railway lines at the 'away' end, which is nearest to the City center. The underpass crossing the line is narrow and might be a hazard if everyone turns up at the last minute, so be careful. It's a half hour walk from the Old Town Square if people want to sober up. Probably a bit early for snow but you never know.
Musical instruments allowed but anyone with a king-size Lambeg should be prepared for an interrogation by security at the gates. Beer and sausage available during game at reasonable prices.
Monday, 24 October 2011
Local sensitivities
Like in many European countries, after decades of political upheaval there is a complex and often fluid ethno-social mix. About 40% of the population don't enjoy full citizenship and tend to prefer their own language, schools and cultural activities. Estonia's roughly similar and all.
Since 1990, many of the political problems have been resolved although the two main communities still retain their own strong identities. Unlike in the Soviet era, Russian speakers tend to do the low-paid jobs- cleaners, cabbies*, night-club touts etc. On our 2004 trip, we were met outside the Le Coq stadium by a guard of squaddies.
Whether they were just showing off, bored, or genuinely thought 95 NI fans plus a party of Finnish groundhoppers were a threat I'm not sure. Anyway, the sergeant barked orders half-heartedly in Estonian for about five minutes until he lost interest, at which all the Russki squaddies started bartering their cap badges for western cigarettes. One of our number, the intrepid 'Mad Dog', bribed his way into the stadium (then a building site) and later abseiled from the roof of the terraces, narrowly escaping a 10 meter drop head first.
* taxi drivers tend to be employed by specific clubs, bars etc. Under no circumstances accept a ride from smooth talking Boris the Spider: regardless of stated destin ation, he'll take you to a venue deep in the forest halfway to Moscow. Full of dodgy mafia types and their molls.
Since 1990, many of the political problems have been resolved although the two main communities still retain their own strong identities. Unlike in the Soviet era, Russian speakers tend to do the low-paid jobs- cleaners, cabbies*, night-club touts etc. On our 2004 trip, we were met outside the Le Coq stadium by a guard of squaddies.
Whether they were just showing off, bored, or genuinely thought 95 NI fans plus a party of Finnish groundhoppers were a threat I'm not sure. Anyway, the sergeant barked orders half-heartedly in Estonian for about five minutes until he lost interest, at which all the Russki squaddies started bartering their cap badges for western cigarettes. One of our number, the intrepid 'Mad Dog', bribed his way into the stadium (then a building site) and later abseiled from the roof of the terraces, narrowly escaping a 10 meter drop head first.
* taxi drivers tend to be employed by specific clubs, bars etc. Under no circumstances accept a ride from smooth talking Boris the Spider: regardless of stated destin ation, he'll take you to a venue deep in the forest halfway to Moscow. Full of dodgy mafia types and their molls.
Tourist attractions
Tallinn is now World-renowned as a World Heritage site and thronged with visitors from Scandinavia, Germany, America and even Japan. All the more surprising given that it was a Soviet naval base and effectively closed to foreigners for decades up to the late 1980s. Lack of (drinking) time and cold weather may limit sightseeing but here are some of the highlights:
Vana Linn (Old Town) is on a hill overlooking the port. Think Derry or maybe a bit Kilkenny. The lower part has quaint cobbled streets, tacky souvenir shops and the pubs listed above. Above these are the Parliament building and the Cathedral. Alas unlike the Faeroes, you won't see the MP for Svensjockstrap Sud appearing in goal for the national side. To be fair he really should have saved that McCourt chip from outside the box.
Kiek in de Kok ('Peep in the kitchen', or what our more disgruntled fans were planning for that lazy bugger Chris Brunt) is worth a visit for the name alone. It's one of the towers in the town wall.
For some fresh air to chase off the hangover, try Rocca al Mare (Cliffs on Sea), now an open air museum. Similar to Cultra for any Belfast readers. Culture fans will like Empress Catherine and Peter the Great's place, Kadriorg. It's now the country's National Art Gallery.
You'll probably want to wind down and forget the predictable disappointment after the game. Luckily, Tallinn offers a number of nightclubs for the discerning enthusiast. Tonic (see photo) also runs the Pizzeria opposite, for a small extra charge they'll get on toppings of your choice. Alcatraz is on a rocky island offshore, if you manage to swim there everything's free...
OK not really, it's in a shopping arcade opposite the ferry terminal. Probably best not to take too many credit cards here, and certainly not to try to put them in the first available slot...
Vana Linn (Old Town) is on a hill overlooking the port. Think Derry or maybe a bit Kilkenny. The lower part has quaint cobbled streets, tacky souvenir shops and the pubs listed above. Above these are the Parliament building and the Cathedral. Alas unlike the Faeroes, you won't see the MP for Svensjockstrap Sud appearing in goal for the national side. To be fair he really should have saved that McCourt chip from outside the box.
Kiek in de Kok ('Peep in the kitchen', or what our more disgruntled fans were planning for that lazy bugger Chris Brunt) is worth a visit for the name alone. It's one of the towers in the town wall.
For some fresh air to chase off the hangover, try Rocca al Mare (Cliffs on Sea), now an open air museum. Similar to Cultra for any Belfast readers. Culture fans will like Empress Catherine and Peter the Great's place, Kadriorg. It's now the country's National Art Gallery.
You'll probably want to wind down and forget the predictable disappointment after the game. Luckily, Tallinn offers a number of nightclubs for the discerning enthusiast. Tonic (see photo) also runs the Pizzeria opposite, for a small extra charge they'll get on toppings of your choice. Alcatraz is on a rocky island offshore, if you manage to swim there everything's free...
OK not really, it's in a shopping arcade opposite the ferry terminal. Probably best not to take too many credit cards here, and certainly not to try to put them in the first available slot...
Friday, 21 October 2011
Drink, food and incidentals
Good news for visitors is that the Worldwide recession seems to have forced down prices even in the heavily-touristed Old Town. No shortage of bars providing pints or half-liters for about €2 - €3 (cheaper away from the center as you might expect). Usual unhealthy pub grub available all day. You could try:
Nimeta ('Bar with no name'), five minutes from Old Town Square. Although do beware of the men's toilets, they actually smelt better after someone boked in one of the urinals
Hell Hunt (actually 'Wolf's Lair', I'm assured), on Pikk, the pedestrianised main street running down from the square to the port. Not to be confused with Hitler's Russian Front HQ during World War Two; that's near Gdansk. You'll have to wait for a future friendly trip to Poland...
Generic Oirish Place, west side of Old Town Square. You could take them a spare tricolor, apparently the last one went missing in September?
Depeche Mode (on an alley just around corner from the Square). No trip to Tallinn is complete without a visit. Full of pissed Swedes in string vests and bondage trousers when I was in.
Top tip before planning a holiday spending spree: be carefully using local cash machines. Most of them give you the money instantly but then retain the card for up to 30 seconds. Luckily the woman just behind in the queue stopped me walking off without it...
Assuming most of you won't be too bothered about the standard Euro breakfast available in hotels (toast, cold meats, cheeses, jam, maybe a boiled egg). The locals also like porridge, black pudding and rye bread. The expensive liqueur Vana ('old') Tallinn tastes like cough medicine with a Buckfast afterglow. The Old Hansa restaurant with staff in medieval fancy dress (they do a re-enactment of the last NI qualification) is funny, but full of German pensioner tour groups.
Snack stands offering burgers, hot dogs etc. are everywhere but for food and any other non-tat shopping your best bet is the Viru centre just outside the Old Town where the road to St Petersburg starts. It also has a bus station and internet cafe in the basement.
Nimeta ('Bar with no name'), five minutes from Old Town Square. Although do beware of the men's toilets, they actually smelt better after someone boked in one of the urinals
Hell Hunt (actually 'Wolf's Lair', I'm assured), on Pikk, the pedestrianised main street running down from the square to the port. Not to be confused with Hitler's Russian Front HQ during World War Two; that's near Gdansk. You'll have to wait for a future friendly trip to Poland...
Generic Oirish Place, west side of Old Town Square. You could take them a spare tricolor, apparently the last one went missing in September?
Depeche Mode (on an alley just around corner from the Square). No trip to Tallinn is complete without a visit. Full of pissed Swedes in string vests and bondage trousers when I was in.
Top tip before planning a holiday spending spree: be carefully using local cash machines. Most of them give you the money instantly but then retain the card for up to 30 seconds. Luckily the woman just behind in the queue stopped me walking off without it...
Assuming most of you won't be too bothered about the standard Euro breakfast available in hotels (toast, cold meats, cheeses, jam, maybe a boiled egg). The locals also like porridge, black pudding and rye bread. The expensive liqueur Vana ('old') Tallinn tastes like cough medicine with a Buckfast afterglow. The Old Hansa restaurant with staff in medieval fancy dress (they do a re-enactment of the last NI qualification) is funny, but full of German pensioner tour groups.
Snack stands offering burgers, hot dogs etc. are everywhere but for food and any other non-tat shopping your best bet is the Viru centre just outside the Old Town where the road to St Petersburg starts. It also has a bus station and internet cafe in the basement.
Welcome!
Mo chara and tere to all our friends from Louna Irimaa!
Having just returned from an enjoyable mini-break* by the Baltic coast. I've been asked to share a few travel tips for you boys in green on tour. I'm sure YBIGOTs will have a great time breaking the ice with the locals. This mainly applies if sailing in from Helsinki, the catamarans often get cancelled due to bad weather at this time of year. More details below.
Don't be put off by this sign outside the duty free shop at Tallinn airport. Our Nordic compadres (never 'Eastern Europeans', they don't like it) are just a bit more imaginative than the dull displays we're used to at home. Boys, girls, hamsters, jelly, Soviet army surplus tanks. All available at competitive prices.
The airport is about 4 Km from the city centre. A taxi should be about €10, but the local drivers still seem to have a bad reputation. There are two bus services from the airport- one serves the hotels in and around the old town (€2), while local route #2 (€1.50 towards 'Sadama', the ferry terminal), is better for hotels around the port and the modern centre. Buy tickets from the kiosk in airport arrivals.
Ferries and catamarans from Helsinki (about four and two hours) can be booked full all year round. Probably best to allow enough time for a ferry crossing if you can, given likely cancellations on the faster services. Musical entertainment is available during the journey, on the 2004 trip we persuaded the band to stay on after their set for a karaoke session.
If driving in from Latvia, be careful in Riga's bars, our party had some problems with aggressive bouncers back in 2007. On the way up Parnu is quite nice, but likely to be quiet in November.
Anyone needing to book a hotel last minute could do worse than try the Tallink Express by the ferry terminal. We paid a bargain €24 per night for a twin, albeit booking well in advance. If all else fails Alcatraz (see below) won't chuck you out until dawn breaks. Lovely girl, Dawn.
* I'd probably have enjoyed it less if I could remember the first two goals or missed the fourth after leaving two minutes early to find the toilets.
Having just returned from an enjoyable mini-break* by the Baltic coast. I've been asked to share a few travel tips for you boys in green on tour. I'm sure YBIGOTs will have a great time breaking the ice with the locals. This mainly applies if sailing in from Helsinki, the catamarans often get cancelled due to bad weather at this time of year. More details below.
Don't be put off by this sign outside the duty free shop at Tallinn airport. Our Nordic compadres (never 'Eastern Europeans', they don't like it) are just a bit more imaginative than the dull displays we're used to at home. Boys, girls, hamsters, jelly, Soviet army surplus tanks. All available at competitive prices.
The airport is about 4 Km from the city centre. A taxi should be about €10, but the local drivers still seem to have a bad reputation. There are two bus services from the airport- one serves the hotels in and around the old town (€2), while local route #2 (€1.50 towards 'Sadama', the ferry terminal), is better for hotels around the port and the modern centre. Buy tickets from the kiosk in airport arrivals.
Ferries and catamarans from Helsinki (about four and two hours) can be booked full all year round. Probably best to allow enough time for a ferry crossing if you can, given likely cancellations on the faster services. Musical entertainment is available during the journey, on the 2004 trip we persuaded the band to stay on after their set for a karaoke session.
If driving in from Latvia, be careful in Riga's bars, our party had some problems with aggressive bouncers back in 2007. On the way up Parnu is quite nice, but likely to be quiet in November.
Anyone needing to book a hotel last minute could do worse than try the Tallink Express by the ferry terminal. We paid a bargain €24 per night for a twin, albeit booking well in advance. If all else fails Alcatraz (see below) won't chuck you out until dawn breaks. Lovely girl, Dawn.
* I'd probably have enjoyed it less if I could remember the first two goals or missed the fourth after leaving two minutes early to find the toilets.
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